Carmel_In

EGYPT

Sunday 21^stDec:

We arrived at Cairo International Airport at around 7pm and were taken to the Grand Pyramids Hotel where we had dinner and an early night. While exploring our room we found that there was a balcony and from the balcony we could see 2 of the Pyramids looming up over the city. It was weird seeing them so close to modern life. I was too tired to wander farther except in sleep.

Monday 22^nd Dec:

$C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\selket_b[1].jpg$ $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\p216988-Las_Vegas_NV-King_Tuts_treasure[1].jpg$
After breakfast we started off early for the Cairo Museum. We sectretly hoped to see Zahi Hawass the famous Egyptologist and Head of Egypt’s Supreme Council of Antiquities. We have seen all of this passionate man’s documentaries on National Geographic and the History Chanell , sadly he didn’t appear .However we did see many items of interest and my favourites were the treasure from King Tutankhamun’s Tomb especially one of the Canopic Shrines made of gilded wood with 4 Goddesses on each side holding arms outstretched in a protective stance with heads inclined. It was so beautiful I returned to it a few times! We could have spent a lot longer at the Museum but our Guide was eager to press on. fter lunch we made our way to the Pyramids which at first sight were awesome . Aoife was the only one brave enough to climb its huge steps while s and me sttod looking up to its peak high into the sky. It didn’t take long at all for the wonder to fade when the closeness of the city became apparent. The further we moved away from them the less impressive they became and the more interesting the camels appeared strange to say. They seemed smaller than I had imagined they would be.
$C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000016.JPG$

Here we unfurled our Save Tara banner and battled the wind to stay upright as it acted like a sail ready to ship us off over a high wall! The weather was surprisingly like being in Ireland on a wild March day, cold and windy! But at least the sun was shining : )

Next we were driven a short distance to where the Sphinx stands guard and at last the vista made sense to me. Now that we could see this -not as large as you would imagine- statue against the backdrop of the Pyramids we felt like we had hit the spot but sadly we only had a half hour here.

Our guide wanted to bring us to some shops where it became apparent she would make commission and thus we got fleeced as well as robbed of some precious time to view and meditate on the marvellous Ancient man made structures of the Giza Plateau.

Having said that we did get some lovely souveneers such as the most beautiful pure essential oils , $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\katep_and_hetepheres_5-6d-bm[1].jpg$ an 18 carat gold cartouche with Aoife’s name on it ( gulp -didn’t realise it was going to cost so much), some papyrus scrolls and some traditional Egyptian costume. After dinner we were only fit for sleep. I found that my ankles were swollen to 4 times their natural size and that explained the pain I had been having walking all day! I realised it must have been from the flight the previous day and slept with my feet propped up. I looked curiously like the statues of middle kingdom Egypt that we had seen the previously that day in the Cairo Museum $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt Pics (Stephen's) 2009-01-02\IMG_2823.JPG$

That night we experienced the Pyramid Sound and Light Show which was absolutely amazing- especially the Lasers but we were freezing despite having hired a blanket!

Tuesday 23^rd Dec

After breakfast we checked out but hung around in the lobby as we couldn’t sight see with a Sandstorm outside! Apparently it only happens about 2-3 times a year but it kept us indoors as even the short walk from the courtyard to the reception left us with the taste of sand from breathing in, cough cough. It was today we discovered that there was an indoor swimming pool so Aoife was thoroughly delighted. Next to that there was a Reflexologist and seeing as my feet were still swollen and sore I decided to pay her a visit. It wasnt until I took my shoes off at the hotel ( with difficulty) that I noticed I didnt have any ankles. There was no definition between my calves and feet- they swelled up on the plane and I also couldnt get my rings off. I saw Reflexology advertised in the lobby so I went for it and the girl was amazing. She did a lot of pressure stuff then pushed all the blood back up my legs. It hurt like HELL! Then Aoife says " Mum I can see your ankles again- look!" Sure enough there was one back, and soon the other. After that treatment I was brand new -like I had new feet. I could have worshipped her! Later we were taken to the Station to board the sleeping train to Aswan. Lets just say ...it was a dingy experience and luckily we were asleep for most of it.

Wednesday 24^th Dec $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000070.JPG$

Stepping off the train we finally felt the warmth of the sun – but not too much as we set off towards our next destination-the Cruise Ship. After a rather disappointing first impression we were relieved to find the interior warm and welcoming and even rather opulent. It would be easy to enjoy this! Our cabins were lovely and after offloading our stuff we explored the ship. On the upper deck there was a pool, deck chairs for lounging around in and even a ping pong table. We didn’t get long at all before having to congregate in the lobby to meet our new Tour guide Waleed who took us to visit the High Dam and The Temple of Philae. I wasn’t much interested in the Dam but Stephen was as he has a more technical appreciation than I do. However I was amazed by the Temple which we had to travel on a small motor boat to as it is on an Island. The Temple is to Isis and full of interesting things to see. Unfortunately it was here that we first encountered Christian graffiti. They chisiled off the faces arms and legs of the Gods and Goddesses to disempower them and to subjugate their new Egyptian conquests. We returned to the cruiser for lunch and a rest and set sail for Kom Ombo. It got dark early so when we arrived at this Temple it was lit up dramatically from all the best angles. This Temple is dedicated on the right to Haroeris and Sobek. Here the mummified remains of 3 crocodiles were found which contained papyrus scrolls giving us the best account of Egyptian medicine we have today. This place struck me as a place of learning. Aoife drew my attention to a white Owl circling above us. She made an appearance again before we left, magical. $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000099.JPG$

That night it was Xmas eve and back on the boat a sumptuous 6 course silver service meal was being prepared- but no one told us it was formal wear so- you guessed it- we arrived in our everyday stuff but there was no way I was turning back- much to Aoife’s dismay as I was too darn hungry! What a meal! The next night we figured we better make the effort and so we dressed up looking all glam and arrived into the to find everyone else in casual attire. There must have been some sort of communication breakdown as nobody told us! Again i would not go back and change and be late for dinner cos I was HUNGRY. Poor Aoife!

Thursday 25^th Dec

$C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000137.JPG$ Xmas Day. After going away for Xmas I was really dismayed to hear Xmas music on the boat and protested loudly at every opportunity, which amused some J Later we busied ourselves rearranging the 2 cribs on board in protest LOL Baby Jesus was nearly swimming with the fishes, Capiche ? Today we visited the Temple of Horus in Esna. Horus was the god of the sky whose eyes were the sun and the moon. He became equated with the king, and therefore the King was Horus manifest. Our Guide ( who was really growing on me at this stage) even explained Egyptian Heirogyphic numeracy- very interesting at this amazing place. I hate maths but I was listening oh so attentively J pity we didn’t have teachers like that in school! He was all man let me tell ya,true charismatic alpha. $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000127.JPG$ In the evening we crossed the lock at Esna- an interesting piece of engineering and then sailed on to Luxor overnight. Against the Nile backdrop I got some lovely pictures of the sunset while listening to the enchanting sounds of the Muslim Muezzin call to prayer floating on the evening breeze.It is beautiful.

$C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000235.JPG$
Friday 26^th Dec

They are still playing Xmas music and I am tearing my hair out. Thankfully we don’t have to endure it for long as we set off to the West Bank straight after breakfast. We visited the Necropolis of Thebes, valley of the Kings, the Temple of Hatshepsut and the Colossi Menon. It was a full on day! We weren’t allowed to take photos in the Valley of the Kings but I did manage to get a sneaky one in the Tomb of Ramses 2^nd ;) The Guards and the Tourist Police are very vigilant here but hey I’m Carmel : ) $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000169.JPG$

Much has been written about the Valley of the Kings and Queen Hatshepsut but I hadn’t heard of the two giant statues before. Technically only the right (northern) statue should be called the colossus of Memnon. After an earthquake damaged it, this statue emitted strange sounds in the morning, perhaps due to the heat of the sun, or the humidity of the night. The statue was damaged in an earthquake and was later repaired by the Romans but tragically it sang no more. Imagine how wonderful it would have been to hear them sing !

$C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000228.JPG$ We were really tired after all that adventure but still had enough energy to attend the Galibea Party held on our last night aboard ship. We had to wear traditional Egyptian Costume and join in some party games and dance. It was here I realised that I don’t know how to have fun cos I didn’t do any of that. I even tried loosening up with a couple of glasses of Egyptian wine but they had no effect and we retired to the deck to watch grown adults play kids games from a distance before hitting the hay at a respectable hour. $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000242.JPG$

Saturday 27^th Dec

Very very sadly we bid goodbye to our Cruiser and its crew ( especially Waleed, damn). Everyone had made us so welcome and at home. We nearly had to be prized away in fact. Our next $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000271.JPG$ destination was the Sonesta St George Hotel only a five minute drive away and which turned out to be very deserving of its 5 star rating, thank god! We took it easy resting by the pool for the day, looking at the shops and eating- again. We ate lots every day J In the late evening we met Emad our next Tour Organiser ( oh why couldn’t it be Waleed) who took us to the Luxor Sound and Light Show. Its entrance framed Orion and Sirius in the clearest of skies. Above them shone the Plaeides. It was awe inspiring, truly magical. I felt it right through. We walked amidst the obelisks and statues and pillars that went on forever but I never took my eyes away from the sky for long relating the position of the stars to their earthly temple. In all the time we have been in Egypt we havnt once seen the moon despite a clear sky each night, its strange.

Sunday 28^th Dec

Today we returned to Karnak and saw much more in the daylight. Stephen consecrated robes he bought previously for our friend Debbie, which was a lovely magical moment which Aoife photographed while I $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000374.JPG$ video’d it for keepsakes, cool. We could have spent hours and hours here as the temple is just so huge with much to explore but being stuck with a Tour Guide ( Nada a lovely young woman) we were restricted to time. It would have been better not to have a guide at all and to just wander around at our own pace- but we will know the next time. There is also a statue of a Scarab beetle which was a gift to Queen Tea there which of course led me to the story of Tara , poor Nada ;)In the afternoon we took a Faluca ride with Emad to Bannana Island. This was the most relaxed we have felt throughout the whole trip. There is something about sailing on a motorless boat with just the sound of the wind in the sails and water lapping against the boat as it glides . Once we got to the Island we were shown banana, Orange, fig, lemon, date and loofah trees which was an amazing experience especially for Aoife! Here’s the thing, she Hates bananas but she couldn’t wait to try them from the trees J They actually taste much sweeter when they haven’t been flown halfway around the world to your table and after our little feast we sailed back with a glorious sunset. It was blissful.

Monday 29^th Dec

Reality check. We are trying not to think about going home... Anyway today we went to the Luxor Museum and the Mummification Museum. Again we would have spent more time exploring without a Guide but then- ya might just miss something. $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000412.JPG$ Even with a not so hectic schedule today we were fairly tired but the sun was just right for lazing by the pool for the afternoon. I finally finished Angels and Demons! Its co ing out in May and I have no idea how they are going to get it onto the big screen. Can I get a ticket now? I gave it to Stephen who will no doubt not be able to put it down either J

Tuesday 30^th Dec $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000471.JPG$

Up early to meet Nada at 8am for a trip to Dendarra. Oh my god at every temple I keep saying “this is the best one” but really This was! There were loads of secret passages , crypts and hideaways but wow when we went up to the top floor! First the view was breathtaking and then Nada led us to a room where she pointed to the ceiling. There was the GoddessNut holding up the night sky and beside it a circular panel depicting the four quarters, the four seasons and the twelve astrological signs of the zodiac! I nearly went into orbit!!!! There is just so much to say about this place! We buzzed on that all day!

Wednesday 31^st Dec. $C:\Users\CARMEL\LimeWire Shared\Pictures\Egypt\P1000532.JPG$

Hearts are heavy on our last day but there is no escaping the fact that we must return home later tonight away from the sun, the colourful blooms that are everywhere and the magical places wehave discovered on our trip. Back to minus 4 in Dublin LWe took a second trip to the West Bank today this time to visit Seti’s Tomb and the tombs of the workers who built those of the great rulers and nobles. We visited their living quarters and explored as much as possible where we were not kept out of by ongoing archaeology. Like us the ancient Egyptians saw the west as the place of death and burial while the living areas were situated in the eastAnd so, we spent New Yrs Eve on a plane which had just taken off from Luxor airport en route to Cairo. From there we flew to Amsterdam before finally landing in Dublin safe and sound and totally exhausted. Hope you enjoyed reading- I kept it as short as I could!

Carmel 6-1-09